where to watch birds in Eastern Poland

where to watch birds in Eastern Poland
(Podlasie province)

White-collared Flycatcher, male, Bialowieza, Podlasie, Poland
May 2003 (© Willem Hartholt)

introduction
At the time of writing - October 2004 - I did five trips to eastern Poland in five years. My first trip was a private trip, the other four were done as a guide for the Wolká foundation (www.wolka.org). I didn’t visit the area in 2000 and 2001, but in 2004 I made two trips. Instead of writing a regular report, I decided to make an up to date guide about where to find the target birds for western European birdwatchers. All trips were made in different weeks, varying between April 26 and May 23. This gave me the opportunity to get a better understanding of the avian diversity of several periods during spring migration. To be as complete as possible, this report is not only based on my own experience. I would like to thank Tomek Kulakowski, Rafal Rzepkowski, Ronald Messenmaker and especially Thijs Sanderink for additional information.

areas
The areas discussed are all in the Podlasie province:
- Biebrza valley
- Bialowieza forest
- Siemianowka
- Dojlidy fishponds, Bialystok

when to go?
Before you go you need to decide which species you want to see. Traditionally going in the last week of April and the beginning of May will give you the highest number of species. Geese and ducks still use the Biebrza as a stopover, the number and diversity of migrating waders is at its peak, Waxwings are still around, woodpeckers are a bit more active and with not much leafs on the trees, a lot of forest species are easier to find. However, as a lot of birds haven’t returned from their wintering grounds, it is difficult or even impossible to find the following interesting: Corncrake (the first ones just arrived), Roller, Red-backed Shrike, River Warbler, Aquatic Warbler (some have arrived), Barred Warbler, Greenish Warbler and Common Rosefinch (don’t get fooled by imitating Starlings: they do it a lot). Some of these species are even hard to find at the end of the first decade of May (e.g. Roller, Barred Warbler, Greenish Warbler). Going in the second half of May gives you the opportunity to see al the specialties, including the last birds to arrive: Roller and Greenish Warbler. The disadvantage however is that migration is virtually over, so the number of species seen at the end of the trip can be somewhat disappointing (e.g. hardly any ducks and waders).

weather
The weather is very variable. To give some examples: in 1999 I arrived on May 12 and it was cloudy, rainy and only 4°C and at night it was even freezing. Five days later it was very sunny, 24°C at daytime and still around 15°C at night. In 2003 I had a week with nothing but rain, in 2002 and on the first trip in 2004 it was very sunny and warm and the second trip in 2004 had it all: warm sunny weather, heavy rain and ground frost. So be prepared for four seasons in a week!

Citrine Wagtail, female, Siemianowka, Podlasie, Poland,
May 2004 (© Vincent van der Spek)

Citrine Wagtail, female, Siemianowka, Podlasie, Poland,
May 2004 (© Vincent van der Spek)

species
I made a personal selection of species I think are interesting. I did add some species interesting for English birders, but not for mainland birders (eg. Crested Tit, Black Woodpecker). Note that I don't know reliable spots for all birds mentioned: some of them I've never seen myself in this area.

Whooper Swan
There are around ten pairs in Poland.
Fishponds Dojlidy, Bialystok:
A pair has been breeding here for several years, but the birds are often difficult to find. They breed in pond 2a or 2b.
Biebrza:
About four pairs breed in the Biebrza, but I don't have exact locations. In spring 2004 groups were seen at Zajki (ten birds) and the bridge at Laskowiec (six birds).

Horned/Slavonian Grebe
Fishponds Dojlidy, Bialystok:
Has not bred in this area for years now. Can sometimes be seen on migration, though I never did. Red-necked Grebe and Black-necked (Horned) Grebe are easy to find here.

Black Stork
Never seen in big numbers, but never missed either.
Biebrza:
The area between Rús and Burczyn is always good for the species, as is the Czerwone Bagno. I've seen them on several other spots in the Biebrza as well.
Siemianowka:
Scan the meadows around the parking lot near Cisowka at the northeastern corner. Seen at the southeastern corner as well.

Great (White) Egret
Biebrza:
Started breeding fairly recently in the Biebrza. Increasing. The best spot seems to be the observation tower at Burczyn, but I've also seen them at Barwik, Osowiec and Zajki.
Siemianowka:
The best spot is the northeastern part of the lake, south of Cisowka, both east and west of the railway. Large numbers were seen in 2003 (13) and 2004 (22, but none two weeks later).

Black Kite
Very scarce with approximately just one pair in the Biebrza.

Red Kite
This species does not breed in the area and is very scarce. In 2003 we had a bird in Pogorzelcze (near Bialowieza village).

Booted Eagle
Probably does'nt breed in Poland anymore.

Greater Spotted Eagle
Biebrza:
12-20 pairs in the Biebrza (and Poland). Lesser Spotted Eagle is 3-5 times more common here (around 60 pairs; easy to see). Good spots are the Czerwone Bagno (Red Marsh, try the observation tower; I saw one in 2004 here), Wolka Piaseczna (the forest east of Goniadz) and the forest behind Zajki/the Laskowiec area. I also saw a bird at Osowiec in 2002 and at Msichy in 2004, but those spots are not classical sites for the species.
Siemianowka & Bialowieza:
Rare in both areas. Does not breed here. At Siemianowka there has been a dark Lesser Spotted around for years, so pay attention.

Lesser Spotted Eagle
Easy to see at Biebrza, Bialowieza (try the open field at the NP entrance) and Siemianowka.

Golden Eagle
Extinct in the area.

White-tailed Eagle
Increasing.
Biebrza:
Good spots are the marshes between Burczyn and Brzostowo (where a pair breeds and sometimes can be seen displaying) and the Czerwone Bagno (Red Marsh, one breeding pair).
Siemianowka:
The northeastern part (just south of Cisowka) is used as a sleeping place by mainly immature birds (only two adults seen there by me). Three visits at the end of the day between 2002 and 2004 resulted in eight, four and four birds. The lake has one breeding pair which can sometimes be seen at the southeastern part as well.
Fishponds Dojlidy, Bialystok:
Migrating birds can often be seen hunting here.

Short-toed Eagle
Biebrza:
Only one or two breeding pairs a year. The best spot is the Czerwone Bagno (Red Marsh, try the observation tower).
Bialowieza:
Hardly any observations around here, though one pair breeds near Hajnowka.

harriers
Montagu's is common (around 80 pairs), but Hen Harrier almost disappeared as a breeding bird, though it can still be seen in small numbers on migration.

Red-footed Falcon
The migration of Red-footed's is earlier than in western Europe. Birds are seen from the end of April (also peak for Hobby) till the second half of May. They can show up anywhere, but Siemianowka is a good spot. And no, you're not blind: Kestrels are very scarce in the area.

Little Crake & Spotted Crake
Spotted Crake is common all over the province of Podlasie, especially on migration.
Biebrza:
Only 15-30 pairs of Little Crake breed here. I don't know any reliable spots here, but I've heard it from the observation tower just south of Gonczarowska Grobla (the Aquatic Warbler reserve).
Bialowieza area:
5-10 pairs. The only place near the village that looks like suitable habitat is along the road to Pogorzelcze.
Fishponds Dojlidy, Bialystok:
Though I've never seen or heard one here, I know of several reliable observations here, also at daylight (mostly at pond 2a and 2b).

Great Snipe
Biebrza:
The Biebrza has got between 370 and 450 pairs, but virtually all leks are inaccessible. In the mid-nineties the lek behind Gugny unfortunately disappeared. The last remaining accessible lek was at Barwik, at the eastern part of the Biebrza (south of Goniadz). Half way between the parking lot and the observation tower is a smaller platform, from where eight males could be seen lekking. In 2003 there was a small fire and the birds moved one hundred metres to the left. Unfortunately in 2004 this lek was abandoned as well. We'll check the place in 2005 to see if they have returned here, but usually abandoned leks stay abandoned.

stints
Don't expect Broad-billed Sandpipers and the like, as stints are very scarce here during spring migration.

Marsh Sandpiper
No breeding records at Siemianowka anymore, but small numbers can still be seen on spring migration here.

Terek Sandpiper
No breeding records at Siemianowka anymore. Rare on spring migration, so don't expect to see this species. The best spot for waders is the north eastern part of the lake, south of Cisowka (both sides of the railway).

gulls
Caspian Gull is seen in small numbers at Siemianowka sometimes, as is the fuscus subspecies of Lesser Black Backed Gull.

terns
Black Tern numbers have been declining for many years now. White-winged Black Tern is more or less stable, though there are large fluctuations from year to year, depending on the water level. 2004 was one of the best years ever for the species. Good spots include Rutkowski and Zajki. Whiskered Tern is increasing. The only reliable spot is Siemianowka, but small numbers occasionally breed in Dojlidy Fishponds and Biebrza. 2004 was also a very good year for Whiskered, with several birds around Burczyn and up to fifty birds at the southeastern part of Siemianowka (and several at the northeastern part).

Black Grouse
Declining.
Siemianowka:
At Cisowka I once saw a male sitting on an electricity wire (!) along the road to Jalowka, but is not a reliable spot of course.
Biebrza:
The best spots for leks are at the Czerwone Bagno (Red Marsh). The best localities here are the observation tower and the forest edge at Kopytkowo, the village at the southern part of the Red Marsh. The Biebrza has 185-220 lekking males.
Bialowieza:
Very rare here.

Capercaillie
Bialowieza:
Extinct on the Polish side of the forest, but possibly still breeds on the Belarus side.

Hazelhen
Declining.
Bialowieza:
Eventhough it is a common bird actually (at least 1.500 pairs!), it is very hard to see in May, as they don't sing anymore and they're hard to flush. A good amount of uck is needed. They can be anywhere, but don't try the wetter areas in the forest. A good area can be reached as follows: when you leave Bialowieza village at the eastern part, take the first dirt road to the left to the Belarus border. After passing the small pines in the beginning of the road, you enter real forest with spruces. Leave the path and walk through the spruce forest. If you're lucky you might flush one. Zebra Zubra (the cultivated, wooden trail just north of the village) is NOT a good spot, though they have been seen there.
Biebrza:
The species occurs in the Czerwone Bagno, but is even harder to see here than in Bialowieza.

Pygmy Owl
Bialowieza:
Teritories vary from year to year, so there are no reliable spots. Does still call in May, so that might help. Try the junction from the main road (Bialowieza-Hajnowka) and the road to the small zoo. Sometimes they're calling in the Parc Palacowy (Palace Park) as well.

Tengmalm's Owl
Very hard to find after the beginning of April (I never did). They are sometimes heard at the spot given for Eagle Owl.

Eagle Owl
Far more common in the Biebrza (24 pairs in 1997) than in Bialowieza (only 2 pairs). Supposedly a good spot is the junction of the open field at Barwik (Great Snipe lek) and the forest. Of course from the end of April onwards this species becomes difficult to find.

Great Grey Owl
Bialowieza:
Does breed on the Belarus side (5 pairs), but not on the Polish side. There are some 15 records in Poland and I was lucky enough to see one in 2002.

Great Grey Owl, Bialowieza, Podlasie, Poland, May 2003
(© Vincent van der Spek)

European Nightjar
Quite common is suitable habitat. Arrives in the second half of May. Try the open areas near pine forests. A good spot in the Biebrza is the forest around Gugny, though they were absent in 2004. In Bialowieza try the road between the village and Pogorzcelze.

White-backed Woodpecker
The problem with all woodpeckers is that they are not very active at this time of year: they are feeding their young now. With some patience White-backed can be seen; on five trips I never missed it. The strict reserve in Bialowieza is a very good spot: I even found a nest here. I've seen them on several occasions along the Zubra Zebra trail as well. It can be seen in the Biebrza as well, for instance in the Czerwone Bagno (forest on nortern part, forest on the dunes). Learn the drum by heart (starting rapidly and then slowing down) and you'll see they're are less hard to find than you might think.

Middle Spotted Woodpecker
Easier to find then White-backed at Bialowieza. Same areas.

Three-toed Woodpecker
See the spot for Hazelhen. In Poland they mainly occur in pine forest. Usually Great Spotted is the only other woodpecker found there as well. They prefer freshly dead spruces for feeding. Also seen in the strict reserve sometimes (used to be easier there). Very scarce in the forests in the Biebrza (just a few pairs in the whole area), so focus on it in Bialowieza.

Grey-headed Woodpecker
According to some no Green Woodpeckers occur here, but that's nonsense. I never missed it, but the numbers seen were always low. Parc Palacowy (the Palace Park) at Bialowieza and Czerwone Bagno at the Biebrza (Red Marsh) are the best spots.

Black Woodpecker
Not very hard to find. Eg. seen in the strict reserve and Zubra Zebra trail, Bialowieza, the forest around Budy (Great Snipe lek), Czerwone Bagno (Red Marsh) et cetera.

Short-toed Treecreeper and Eurasian Treecreeper
Short-toed is very rare (they can be seen in Warsaw), Eurasian is quite easy to see, especially in Bialowieza.

Citrine Wagtail
Increasing. Found in grasslands near marshes.
Siemianowka:
7-12 pairs. The first birds arrive around mid April. In Cisowka, at the northeastern part of the lake, walk towards the railway on the left side of the sluice. Cross the railway and scan the trees in this part of the Siemianowka lake from there. A territory has been there for years. If you turn right at the sluice instead of left and walk a few hundred metres, you’ll find some wet meadows. Supposedly this is also a good spot, though I’ve never seen them here. The best spot in Siemianowka, however, is the southeastern corner of the lake. Go to the area here with the viewing platform and the sluice. The birds are easy to find here. The parking lot is on the map, so the spot should be easy to find as well. In 2004 we found four pairs around the sluice, but due to flooding only one nest survived (pes obs two weeks later). I accidentally almost stepped on three very young chicks and an egg. Listen for there sharp calls once here.
Biebrza:
One of the best spots is at the village of Msichy (an observation tower is marked on the map here). The best spot here is around a small patch of “forest”, halfway down the one way path. In 2003 I also observed a pair at Kopytkowo, at the southern part of Czerwone Bagno (the Red Marsh). This was a yet unknown spot for the species, but in 2004 I could not relocate them here on two occasions.

European Roller
This species is declining rapidly, but at the northern part of Siemianowka 1-3 pairs still remain. There are only about 50 pairs left in Poland,with 10 pairs in Podlasie (summer 2004). The best spot is the road to Jalowka, just northeast of Cisowka. The birds don't arrive before the second half of May.

spot 1:
just north of Jalowka, right before the village of Gonczary (no birds in 2004)

spot 2:
the fish ponds west of Jalowka (no birds in 2004)

spot 3:
probably the most reliable spot; coming from Cisowka take a left turn to Jalowka. Almost immediately after the turn you'll see an electricity building on your right. In the surroundings a pair has been breeding for years now.

Lesser Grey Shrike
Just like Roller this species is declining rapidly, probably caused by declining numbers of big insects at the wintering grounds. Until 2002 a pair was still breeding at Zaleszany/Szymki. There are no reliable spots in Podlasie anymore, though they're sometimes seen at Roller spot 3. A bird was present east of Bialowieza in 2004.

Thrush Nightingale
Impossible to miss. They arrive early and sing just about everywhere.

Barred Warbler
Arrives in the second half of May. Especially common around Bialowieza: I've even seen them in bushes in the village here. The best spot however is the area just east of the village, were the road crosses the Narew river.

Aquatic Warbler
In the Biebrza no less then 2.000-2.500 singing males are present. Aquatics usually don't arrive before 10 May. The best spot is Gonczarowska Grobla (or Honczarowska Droga), a few miles north of the Great Snipe lek at Budy (it's on the map). Walk the rather boring path (one way) until you leave the "forest" and reach an open field. Pass the observation tower and listen for singing males. They are most active in the evening, but they do sing in the morning as well. This is also good spot for Curlew (scarce in Poland), Short-eared Owl and Elks. Goniadz and Msichy have some pairs as well, but these spots are not very reliable.

River Warbler
Arrives in May, the later you come, the better. Easy in all suitable habitat.

Greenish Warbler
Breeding still isn't proved, though it's suspected in Bialowieza. Arrives in the second half of May. Every year migrating birds are seen in the Biebrza, but there are no regular spots. In Bialowieza Parc Palacowy is your best bet for finding singing birds, but you need a good amount of luck.

White-collared Flycatcher
Easily outnumbers Pied in Bialowieza. Especially common at Parc Palacowy (Palace Park) and the strict reserve.

Red-breasted Flycatcher
Usually arrives after 10 May, but a few come earlier. Not uncommon. Can be seen and heard anywhere in the surroundings of Bialowieza, including the strict reserve. I've never heard them in the Palace Parc though. Common in the forest on the northern part of the Czerwone Bagno (Red Marsh).

Crested Tit
Small numbers in pine forest throughout the area. They are never easy to find.

Eurasian Nuthatch
Two subspecies co-exist; Sitta europaea europaea en S. e. caesia

Jackdaw
Subspecies soemerengii is common in winter, but this is an intermediate zone for breeding birds. I never saw a very convincing soemerengii in spring.

Ortolan Bunting
Common in agricultural areas. Try the main road between Wizna and Burzcyn, they are easy here.

some less known areas in the Biebrza

the meadows south of Wizna along the Narew river:
If there's enough water and the meadows are flooded, this is eg. very good for waders (Ruff, Wood Sandpiper), all three Chlidonias terns, hunting raptors, Spotted Crakes, Black Storks and Short-eared Owl.

the meadows at Zajki
Same story: the meadows need to be flooded.

Brzostowo
Just north of Burczyn. Very good area. Pay the farmer a small fee to get into the observation tower. Brilliant views and good for eg. Elk and White-tailed Eagle.

Msichy
North of Brzostowo. One way walk, second half of the walk (to an observation tower) you might need wellington boots. Bluethroat sing in the bushes, Citine Wagtail breeds in the meadows and Common Cranes and Elks can be seen in the more open areas. I've seen Greater Spotted Eagle here as well.