This is not the original article. The original was once on the web, but for some reason taken off. Because I believe that any article about cycling in Iceland is worthwhile, I saved a copy and publish a slightly edited version here. If you are the owner and don't want this, then please contact me. I will remove it right away.
|Hello Stefan (and Andreas), Dietmar and Ralph (and
Holger), and some
other not meet up in Iceland !
Sorry to write to all of you at once, but ...
As I already told some of you I did the Route 1 around Iceland in 1998
and wanted to go back to look a little at the vast interior - the
highlands, because I heard about it from both Stefan and Andreas (did
together Kj°lur in 1998 and later Andreas did Sprengisandur in september
1998) and also some frenchman I meet at Selfoss Campground who wanted to
go to Landmannalaugar.
Dietmar I meet before start in the centre of Reykjavik asking what he
intended to do by bike (no Icelandic youth use bikes ... foreigner) and
later again meet at Tingvallavatn and joined to Gullfoss, where he
headed to Landmannalaugar.
Ralph and Holger I meet underneath a bridge at the beginning of the
Kj°lur track, because of a puncture by them (had heard about it from
some coming down from Kj°lur) and more or less followed them through the
hole of the Kj°lur route.
The weather of the 3-4 days along the Kj°lur route was not top ... lots
of hours with headwind and light rain and specially at Hveravellir rain
and wind the hole night, so it was rather hard to leave the hot pot and
go to the tent, I did no sleep much that night.
From Varmahlid I took the bus to Akureyri and here I meet a kiwi Edwin
who was preparing to bike to Myvatn.
At Akureyri I tried to figure out how much to buy of breakfast and lunch
food (had enough dinner meals), but at lunch time when I was ready to
leave Akureyri the valve of the tube did fall off and I had to buy a new
tube before starting up the valley heading to Laugerfell.
The valley of Eyjafjordur from Akureyri was rather uphill and lots of
driving in the water and lots of loose stones ... so to quote ... my
former neighbour from University time ... I did sweat as an old russian
And at the top the police overtook me and questioned me and finalized by
stating that of cause they expected that I also did not bring along any
telephone ... of cause not !
The hot pot and the sunny weather made the stay at Laugarfell ... really
Heading to Nyidalur ... again good weather but some fear how much water
would I meet at the rivers just 5 Km before Nyidalur ... just enough
that the river started to pull my bike and luggage down river and that
did really hurts my bare feed (took a chance not using my scuba diving
shoes) trying pulling the hole thing on shore again ... and got wet
bicycle trousers also ...
At Nyidalur I meet 4 Netherlands going south (two former MTB racers, 1
still bycycle repair man and the other designer of bikes for Trek) and 1
father and son ... all in good shape). Later that evening also 5 from
Belgium going North showed up.
Next morning we all leave separately but later the designed bike broke
the luggage frame and I did overtake the Netherlands but we meet again
at Versalir ... having a couple of beers and some cake and dried fish
with butter ... delicious ... taste ... but not smell.
Next morning it was raining again so we followed and maybe took a little
detour to Hraunejeyr power station and had a hamburger and sweets and
hot chocolate before being ready to start towards Landmannalauger
through the black loose sand and the corrugated roads ...
Just before the power station the father had a snakebite of the tube and
later my chain broke and injured my back derailer but the professionals
fixed it ... great. Later 10 Km before Landmannalauger I realized that 1
spoke at the gear side was broken, but carried on. When starting up from
the Hamburger place (gas station and restaurant) I quickly realized that
the 60 Km at high speed and light rain had pumped out all my energy so I
quickly swallowed 8 pieces of grape sucker ... and got up again ...
Landmannalauger and the way in was very beautiful and the bus selling
bananas and beers and bread did the hole evening better ... and the next
mornings fixing of the spoke and having some hours in the hot pot made
me ready before up and down to Eldgja ... now also my front derailer did
break ... where I meet some scientists (vegetation historian geologs)
saying some leftover storm was expected the day after so I took their
offer and went by jeep to Vik and did not meet the time limit to have
some meal at the bus and gas station ... damn ... only two sandwiches
and a good sleep at the Lundi hotel.
Next day normal breakfast and bus to Reykjavik and dinner with my
friends in Kopavogur (and playing with their 6 months boy twins) and
Friday attending the Volkanshow ... Funny and OK and dinner at some
other friend couple (and computer playing with their 6 year son). Late
Saturday I had booked a table at the new gourmet restaurant "Le
Sommelier" at 2200, but got it changed to 1,5 hour from 1830 ...
Delicious ! ... and did catch the bus to the airport and leave Iceland
at 0200 ... and did nearly sleep all sunday ...
Great struggle and holiday !!!!
Per Kold ...